Hyperstrike

Okay. Didn't want to push you or anything. Just wanted to know what was behind the decision.

Which one? There's two.

SFO (San Francisco Intl. Airport) and
SJO (Mineta San Jose Intl. Airport)

SFO is north of Dinah's, about 25 miles on the 101.

SJO is south of Dinah's, about 14 miles on the 101.


Travel times will probably depend on time of day and traffic conditions.

As to cost. Well, if you have to get a cab or something, dunno. Honestly. It's my first trip to Cali in roughly 20 years (ohgod, did I just say that aloud? GET OFF MY LAWN!)

If you're getting in around a certain time, one of the people actually getting a car and driving might be willing to give you a lift for a couple bucks in gas money.

Is there a reason you are looking at the H80 rather than the H100?

Not that I'm advocating you building a "Tim Taylor Special 500 HP garbage disposal" or anything.
Just curious what spurred the choice for that specific unit.

Budget won't stretch the $15 differential?
Just trying for a "middle way" between the H60 and the H100?
Don't wanna hassle with a radiator that big?

I'm reminded of this...

Unless you're looking at enemies lower than you in level, you're going to get a KD, not KB.

KB Mag on Spring Attack is IDENTICAL to Foot Stomp (.67), and only SLIGHTLY higher than Shield Charge (.64).

So it's a nice combat opener. SA, FS, and clean up what's left.

Shield/SS with SA becomes an AoE monster where the only thing in front of the enemies' eyes are...their feet.

Honestly? No. Not if he's dropping $110-130 for one.

But that's just me.

It's called "set the money aside NOW" and pretend to yourself like it doesn't exist.

Okay. Ticket bought.

It's always nice to have options. Just that, sometimes, choice can be rather angst-inducing. Still, you should wind up with a fairly butt-kicking machine when all is said and done.

One word: Cool!

Yeah. Usually you want to allow at least a day or so for an initial reply. Sometimes the forums are down or unresponsive. Sometimes people are at work. Sometimes they're in the middle of doing some research for you. And sometimes the post gets buried right away by other traffic. And sometimes you get a nasty storm of all of the above, delaying things.

I can understand wanting something better NOW. But a little patience keeps you from spending a bunch of extra money in the long run.

Okay I took a look. Yeah, it has an mSATA connector. But the connector is squeezed between the CPU and the first PCI-E x16 slot. If you put a large heatsink in there you're going to have space issues trying to insert the mSATA SSD.

For initial setup, when you'd put the SSD in before putting the heatsink on, this won't be a huge problem. But servicing it afterwards will be problematic and likely require you to have to remove the heatsink.

Okay big thing for the motherboard. A while back a lot of places stopped using the dome-top screws like these:



A lot of the motherboard pillars (the brass piece you see above) now support the more conventional "rounded" hex heads like this:



I actually found this out the Hard Way. I set up a client's machine with the older dome screws fixing things and had half of them pop off the pillars on me. NOT a happy camper. Especially since the case they were used in was quite a tight fit.



Generally, how I do it is this way.

If you're going with liquid cooling the very first thing you're going to want to do is install the radiator into the top of the case.

Assemble the motherboard stuff next.

• Put in the CPU
• Plug in the memory
• Apply thermal paste and attach the heatsink (if going liquid cooling, attach the backplate for the water block, then attach the water block after you've screwed in the motherboard and attached the power connectors.

How to apply thermal paste:


http://www.maximumpc.com/article/how..._thermal_paste


Video on how to remove and apply:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3gx6c62D7I




Replace the default IO backplate on the case with the one provided by Asus. Just pop the old one out and pop the new one in. Make sure you put it in with the "padding" side facing in and that the shield isn't upside-down. Pretty straightforward.


Install any case fans at this point. Make sure the ones up front are aligned to blow INTO the case (most fans have a directional arrow to help you figure it out). The ones in the back and at the top (attached to the radiuator if you're liquid cooling) should blow out of the case.



Make sure you have all 6 of the ATX screw posts already in the case.


There will be three along the top, three in the middle and three at the bottom. They don't all line up directly, so keep an eye on this. And don't simply ignore the center posts. You DON'T want to be flexing your motherboard when you're working on it.


Once you're sure you've got the posts in place (you can trial run it by slipping the motherboard in and checking position against the screw holes on the board, just be careful).


Finally, screw in the motherboard. With the padded backplate you'll have to push just a little to seat it back properly. But this will provide a nice tight fight against the IO shield and position it perfectly for card installation.


Once the motherboard is in, put in the power supply and connect it up. If you go modular, only install the bare minimum connectors you need. Cuts down on cable clutter.


Now I'm going to say a not-so-quick word about CABLE ROUTING.
Take BOTH side plates off your case while installing. Notice the grommets on the motherboard tray? The case is intended to have most of the cables routed behind the motherboard tray to keep them out of the main case cavity, so they don't impede air flow.


USE THEM. Take some time cleanly routing your cables when you install the system. DON'T leave a rats' nest of cables in the main cavity.


There are numerous products out there that help with this. The cheapest are zip-ties. If you use these, be VERY careful NOT to cinch them down very tight. If you get too crazy you can wind up cutting wires.


There are also velcro cable ties so you don't have to futz with cutting off zip ties.


There's also adhesive cable clips for keeping stuff cleanly separated (instead of bundling the ties up).


The basic gist of it is, if you keep the main portion of the case clear of extra obstructions, you can keep air-flow high and the case and components will stay cooler.


Connect up the case and fan connectors too. Asus provides you with an "Easy" case connector standoff. This way you're not futzing with needle nose pliers trying to get the connectors on or connecting them backward. Just connect the case connectors to the standoff, then plug the standoff down onto the motherboard. You also should have a couple plugs that go into the motherboard's internal USB connectors (for the case's front plate USB connectors).



If liquid cooling, now is the time to apply the thermal paste and hook up the waterblock.


Install your video card and any other PCI/PCI-E cards.


Stand the case up and install your optical drive, hard drives and any SSDs.


From here you can plug in the PSU, make sure if it has an external power switch that it's in the "on" position, and power the sucker on.

To get into the BIOS the first time, refer to the manual. Usually it's something like F1 or F2.

With modern drives and SSDs you'll want to set drive compatibility to AHCI. Not IDE/compatibility. You also want to set the date if it isn't already auto-set.

Look around the BIOS and make sure the device manager is seeing both your SSD, HD and optical drive.

If you're not going to have anyone futzing with your machine, set the boot device priority to Optical, then the drive you're booting to.

If you want to prevent people tampering with your system if they have physical access, set the priority to your prospective boot drive, then the optical. The first time through, it'll fail on the boot drive (because nothing's installed) and boot from the CD/DVD.

When you exit the BIOS, make SURE you take the option to save and exit (usually F10). Let the system reboot itself, then install Windows.

Once Windows is in, install the device drives from the included CD/DVD. I recommend NOT letting it "auto-install" everything. Some of the disks install a bunch of unnecessary crap if you do. You want JUST device drivers. Also, this is the point where you need to look at the manual for how to set up the SSD cache.

Don't thank me till you see my bill.

Honestly, I think you'd really prefer to have a slightly larger SSD as your OS+CoH drive and a hard drive as a "data dump". But that's just me. Let's see how your budget holds up.

Also, I recommend, if you have an external hard drive or another machine on the network with lots of space, that you get a copy of Acronis True Image. Once you get Windows installed, patched and your basic apps (and CoH) in, boot off the Acronis disk and make a disk image of your drive to the external HD/network location. This'll probably take a few hours. Set it and then go get yourself something to eat.

This way, if something "blows up" on you, you can restore a more or less complete, patched system instead of starting from scratch.

Restoring from an image and patching to the latest levels? A couple hours to a day, and the system is completely usable after an hour or so.

Restoring from a bare hard drive and reinstalling everything? Several days at least and the system is only marginally useful during much of that time.



Also, you're going to hear about "X-second boot times".

That is NOT factored from power-on to sign-on. It's factored from the time your BIOS hands off to the OS bootloader until you get a sign-on prompt.

Every motherboard takes a slightly different amount of time to check itself out and load things up before handing off to the OS.

So you start counting as soon as you see the windows loading screen.

My older system with an SSD raid takes about a minute and a half to two minutes to go from power-on to sign-on. But it only takes about 17 seconds for Windows to load.

Okay, from where?

Why yes! Yes I dd!

Yeah. That's a fairly monstrous case. You're NOT going to have space issues.

Good boy! Smart decision! If I do say so myself (and I do).


Danger Will Robinson! Danger! Danger! *Waves arms*

Just kidding. Ask away.

Yes, the 2500K chip is SPECIFICALLY unlocked for overclocking.

If you plan on overclocking, go with something more than the default heatsink/fan setup though.

It doesn't directly attach to the motherboard. It gets set up (physically) just like any other drive in the case. You then use the Intel app to "mate" it to your system drive.


Corsair or Crucial would be fine.
You can get OCZ drives cheaper, but I hesitate to suggest them as their latest couple generations have had some quality control issues.


You can get a PCI card like this for it. I really recommend going wired if at all possible. But if you gotta go wireless.

The Noctua is probably one of the best. The only problem is, it's HUGE.
The Coolermaster should be fine.
As for liquid, I wouldn't worry too much. Modern self-contained liquid cooling is very VERY safe and maintenance free. It also clears up a lot of space around the motherboard that's otherwise filled with a chunk of heatsink.
Also, that case is specifically built for it.


I recommend populating all three of the 120mm fan slots (2 front, 1 back).

This will help keep airflow through the case high.

Here's a version of him with LOTGs instead of HamiOs. S/L capped with 1 enemy in range, and effectively S/L/E/N capped (44.9) with 3.




Hero Plan by Mids' Hero Designer 1.953
http://www.cohplanner.com/

Click this DataLink to open the build!

Level 50 Magic Tanker
Primary Power Set: Invulnerability
Secondary Power Set: Super Strength
Power Pool: Fighting
Power Pool: Leaping
Power Pool: Speed
Ancillary Pool: Energy Mastery

Hero Profile:
Level 1: Temp Invulnerability -- RctvArm-ResDam:40(A), RctvArm-ResDam/EndRdx:40(3), RctvArm-ResDam/Rchg:40(3), RctvArm-EndRdx/Rchg:40(5), S'fstPrt-ResDam/Def+:30(5)
Level 1: Jab -- KntkC'bat-Acc/Dmg:35(A), KntkC'bat-Dmg/EndRdx:35(7), KntkC'bat-Dmg/Rchg:35(7), KntkC'bat-Dmg/EndRdx/Rchg:35(9), Mako-Acc/Dmg/EndRdx/Rchg:50(9)
Level 2: Dull Pain -- RechRdx-I:50(A), RechRdx-I:50(11), RechRdx-I:50(11)
Level 4: Haymaker -- KntkC'bat-Acc/Dmg:35(A), KntkC'bat-Dmg/EndRdx:35(13), KntkC'bat-Dmg/Rchg:35(13), KntkC'bat-Dmg/EndRdx/Rchg:35(15), Mako-Acc/Dmg/EndRdx/Rchg:50(15)
Level 6: Boxing -- Empty(A)
Level 8: Unyielding -- RctvArm-ResDam:40(A), RctvArm-ResDam/EndRdx:40(17), RctvArm-ResDam/Rchg:40(17), RctvArm-ResDam/EndRdx/Rchg:40(19), Empty(45)
Level 10: Taunt -- Mocking-Taunt:50(A), Mocking-Taunt/Rchg:50(19), Mocking-Taunt/Rchg/Rng:50(21), Mocking-Acc/Rchg:50(21), Mocking-Taunt/Rng:50(23), Mocking-Rchg:50(23)
Level 12: Combat Jumping -- LkGmblr-Def/EndRdx:50(A), LkGmblr-Rchg+:50(25)
Level 14: Tough -- RctvArm-ResDam:40(A), RctvArm-ResDam/EndRdx:40(25), RctvArm-ResDam/Rchg:40(27), RctvArm-ResDam/EndRdx/Rchg:40(27)
Level 16: Resist Physical Damage -- Aegis-ResDam:50(A), Aegis-ResDam/EndRdx:50(29), Aegis-ResDam/Rchg:50(29)
Level 18: Invincibility -- LkGmblr-Def/EndRdx:50(A), LkGmblr-Rchg+:50(31)
Level 20: Knockout Blow -- KntkC'bat-Acc/Dmg:35(A), KntkC'bat-Dmg/EndRdx:35(31), KntkC'bat-Dmg/Rchg:35(33), KntkC'bat-Dmg/EndRdx/Rchg:35(33), Mako-Acc/Dmg/EndRdx/Rchg:50(33)
Level 22: Weave -- LkGmblr-Def/EndRdx:50(A), LkGmblr-Rchg+:50(34)
Level 24: Super Jump -- Winter-ResSlow:50(A)
Level 26: Tough Hide -- LkGmblr-Def:50(A), LkGmblr-Def/EndRdx:50(31), LkGmblr-Rchg+:50(34)
Level 28: Rage -- RechRdx-I:50(A), RechRdx-I:50(34), RechRdx-I:50(36)
Level 30: Spring Attack -- Erad-Acc/Dmg/Rchg:30(A), Erad-Acc/Dmg/EndRdx/Rchg:30(37), Erad-%Dam:30(40), M'Strk-Acc/Dmg/EndRdx:50(45), M'Strk-Acc/Dmg:50(46), Oblit-Acc/Dmg/EndRdx/Rchg:50(46)
Level 32: Resist Energies -- Aegis-ResDam:50(A), Aegis-ResDam/EndRdx:50(36), Aegis-ResDam/Rchg:50(36)
Level 35: Resist Elements -- Aegis-ResDam:50(A), Aegis-ResDam/EndRdx:50(37), Aegis-ResDam/Rchg:50(37)
Level 38: Foot Stomp -- Erad-%Dam:30(A), Erad-Acc/Dmg/EndRdx/Rchg:30(39), Erad-Acc/Dmg/Rchg:30(39), M'Strk-Acc/Dmg/EndRdx:50(39), M'Strk-Acc/Dmg:50(40), Oblit-Acc/Dmg/EndRdx/Rchg:50(40)
Level 41: Hasten -- RechRdx-I:50(A), RechRdx-I:50(42), RechRdx-I:50(42)
Level 44: Conserve Power -- RechRdx-I:50(A), RechRdx-I:50(45), RechRdx-I:50(46)
Level 47: Laser Beam Eyes -- Thundr-Acc/Dmg/Rchg:50(A), Thundr-Acc/Dmg/EndRdx:50(48), Thundr-Dmg/EndRdx/Rchg:50(48), Thundr-Acc/Dmg:50(48), Thundr-Dmg/EndRdx:50(50), Thundr-Dmg/Rchg:50(50)
Level 49: Physical Perfection -- Heal-I:50(A), P'Shift-End%:50(50)
Level 50: Spiritual Core Paragon
------------
Level 2: Swift -- Run-I:50(A)
Level 2: Health -- Numna-Regen/Rcvry+:50(A), Numna-Heal:50(42), Mrcl-Rcvry+:40(43)
Level 2: Hurdle -- Jump-I:50(A)
Level 2: Stamina -- P'Shift-End%:50(A), EndMod-I:50(43), EndMod-I:50(43)
Level 1: Brawl -- Acc-I:50(A)
Level 1: Gauntlet
Level 1: Sprint -- Run-I:50(A)
Level 2: Rest -- RechRdx-I:50(A)
Level 4: Ninja Run






Also, don't let people tell you how EXPENSIVE the PVP TP/Defense IO is. It's not really that expensive. All you have to be willing to do is work on your SSA (which you can mostly tank-stealth) once a week and tips for a month or two. If you're really impatient, and you're buying Hero Packs, you should also wind up with SCADS of Reward Merits, meaning you can convert them to Hero Merits once a day. Essentially, with a bit of diligence, you can have the PVP IO in under a month.

Well, they did say "net". Before auction fees, certification fees and taxes, the number should be quite a bit higher.

I use FRAPS for video capture and then Camtasia Studio for editing and upload. But there are other video editors out there that pretty much do 100% of what Camtasia does and more.

Note, if you're creating video at high res, you may need to resize it or content yourself to record at 1280x720 (The High-Res setting for YouTube, if that's what you're using to distribute).

*Busts a gut laughing*

Actually, one of the things that hurts The Hollows is how tough it is to get around in some places without decent travel powers. Yes, that's LESS of an issue now than it's ever been before. But it's still an issue.

Additionally, with the XP curve and the way it's been smoothed, it's INSANELY easy to outlevel the content. I emerged on the far side of the Twinshot arcs above max level for The Hollows.

From what I've heard, Sister Flame likes doing Frostfire for the ice slicks.

For an Alpha, go with either Cardiac or Vigor.